How to make a septic tank in a private house: a detailed guide to installation and maintenance

The organization of autonomous sewage in a private house or at a summer cottage (especially in rural areas) is an important step to ensure comfort, hygiene, and environmental safety. Below you will find a step-by-step guide on how to properly make a septic tank in a private house by yourself, as well as useful tips on choosing and placing the system. This information will help you navigate all key issues: from calculating the volume of the septic tank to the requirements regarding distances from buildings and water sources.

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1. Why is a septic tank needed in a private house?

A septic tank is a system for treating and disposing of wastewater. It performs several important functions:

1. Waste collection: receives all wastewater from the house (bathroom, kitchen, toilets).
2. Treatment: sedimentation and biochemical transformation of pollutants occur.
3. Safe disposal: treated water is dispersed into the soil without harming the environment.

Without a quality septic tank in a private house, one may encounter problems with unpleasant odors, groundwater contamination, and health risks for residents.

2. Main types of septic tanks

When choosing a system for autonomous sewage, attention should be paid to various types of septic tanks. Here are the most common solutions:

1. Biological septic tanks

   • Use special bacteria that decompose organic waste.
   • Provide a high level of wastewater treatment (up to 90–95%).
   • Environmentally safe, but require stable temperature and proper operation (avoid aggressive cleaning agents).

2. Mechanical (settling) septic tanks

   • The treatment process is based on sedimentation and subsequent filtration.
   • The structure often consists of one or two settling tanks and a filtration field (drain field or filtration well).
   • Easy to install, but provide a somewhat lower percentage of treatment, so they may require additional treatment (filtration fields).

3. Chemical septic tanks

   • Chemical reagents are used for disinfection and decomposition of waste.
   • Effective in complex cases (for example, when it is difficult to organize biological processes), but less environmentally friendly and may require special disposal of sludge.

If you plan to make a septic tank by yourself, the mechanical or biological type is most often chosen due to ease of installation and relatively low cost.

3. Important factors when choosing a septic tank

1. Number of residents and daily volume of wastewater

   • To calculate the minimum required volume of the septic tank, consider that one person uses an average of 150–200 liters of water per day.
   • The septic tank should be designed for at least a three-day volume of wastewater (for example, for a family of 4, the approximate volume will be 4 × 200 × 3 = 2400 liters).

2. Soil type and groundwater level

   • This affects the efficiency of filtration and the depth of the structure.
   • If the groundwater is high, additional waterproofing or the choice of a sealed structure may be required.

3. Climatic conditions

   • In northern regions or areas with harsh winters, it is important to provide insulation for the septic tank so that biological processes do not stop at sub-zero temperatures.

4. Available budget

   • Consider the cost of not only materials and installation but also ongoing operation and maintenance (sludge pumping, purchasing bacteria, etc.).

5. Building codes and regulations

   • Learn about local regulations regarding the distance of the septic tank from the house, well, or property boundary. In Ukraine, for example, it is often recommended to maintain at least 5 meters from the house and 25–50 meters from drinking water sources (depending on soil type and local requirements).

4. Distance from the septic tank to the house and other objects

Many people seek information about “the distance of the septic tank from the house” or “the distance from the septic tank to the house”. General recommendations are as follows:

• To the foundation of the house: at least 5 meters.
• To the boundary of the neighboring plot: at least 2 meters (depending on local regulations).
• To the well or borehole: usually 25–50 meters (the exact value depends on soil type and local sanitary requirements).
• To the water body: usually 30–50 meters.

Maintaining distances ensures safety, reduces the risk of contamination, and eliminates unpleasant odors near living spaces.

5. Step-by-step guide: how to make a septic tank in a private house by yourself

Below is a general algorithm for installing a mechanical (settling) or biological septic tank. If you wish to choose another type, the principles will be similar, but there may be additional nuances.

Step 1: Planning and choosing a location

1. Assess the conditions on the site

   • Determine the relief (it is better to install the septic tank in a low area or a remote section to gravity drain the wastewater).
   • Check the soil type and groundwater level.

2. Follow building codes

   • Choose the distance from the house and well according to local rules.

3. Calculate the volume of the septic tank

   • Depending on the number of residents and daily water consumption.

Step 2: Preparatory work and digging the pit

1. Marking the site

   • Mark the outlines of the future septic tank and additional elements (drain field or filtration well).

2. Digging the pit

   • The depth of the pit is usually 0.5–1 meter greater than the height of the tank itself (to create a sand cushion and possible insulation).
   • Leave space for convenient installation and further maintenance.

3. Creating a sand or concrete base

   • It is advisable to lay a layer of sand (10–20 cm) or pour a concrete slab at the bottom of the pit to level the surface and ensure the stability of the structure.

Step 3: Installing the septic tank

1. Installing the settling chambers

   • If it is a polymer or fiberglass tank, carefully lower it into the pit and secure it so that it does not “float” when the groundwater level rises.
   • For septic tanks made of concrete rings – install the rings one by one, sealing the joints (with mortar or special sealants).

2. Connecting pipes

   • Install the inlet pipe with a slope of about 2–3 cm per 1 meter of length, so that the wastewater flows freely into the septic tank.
   • The outlet (drain) pipe leads to the filtration field or filtration well.

3. Waterproofing

   • If necessary, treat the outer walls with bitumen mastic or another waterproofing material. This is especially relevant for regions with a high groundwater level.

Step 4: Backfilling and finishing

1. Backfilling

   • Gradually backfill the pit with a sand-soil mixture, moistening and compacting in layers.
   • Ensure that the septic tank has not shifted from its place.

2. Installing manholes and ventilation

   • Be sure to provide a cover (manhole) for inspection and cleaning of the chambers.
   • Install ventilation stacks that ensure the removal of gases and supply air for bacteria (especially relevant for bio-septic tanks).

3. Insulation (if necessary)

   • If the region has severe frosts, the upper part of the septic tank can be additionally insulated with foam or extruded polystyrene.

Step 5: Organizing drainage (filtration fields)

If your septic tank is not completely sealed, you will need to organize the drainage of partially treated wastewater into the soil. For this, the following are arranged:

1. Filtration well – used in sandy or loamy soils.
2. Filtration fields – several perforated pipes (drains) in a gravel-sand cushion, evenly distributed across the site.

6. Operation and maintenance of the septic tank

1. Regular cleaning

   • At least once every 1–2 years, call a vacuum truck to pump out the sludge.
   • If it is a biological septic tank, follow the manufacturer’s recommendations (you may need to replenish bacterial preparations).

2. Checking the fill level

   • Conduct a visual inspection through the manhole. If the water level is too high, pumping or checking the condition of the drainage field may be necessary.

3. Avoiding aggressive substances

   • Do not pour chlorine-containing agents in large quantities, oil, paints, and other toxic substances into the sewage system, as this can harm bacteria or damage system components.

4. Leakage control

   • If cracks or leaks are detected, it is necessary to promptly repair or replace damaged components.

7. Tips for building a septic tank in the village

• How to make a septic tank in the village? The technology is the same as for any private house. Pay special attention to the soil type: in rural areas, it may be clayey or have a high groundwater level.
• Choose reliable materials: concrete rings or ready-made plastic tanks.
• Follow sanitary norms: do not place the septic tank too close to wells, basements, or sources.

8. Frequently asked questions (FAQ)

1. Can I make a septic tank by myself without the help of specialists?
Yes, if you are confident in your construction skills and take into account all technical and sanitary requirements. However, complex structures (for example, a biological septic tank with multiple chambers) may require professional consultation.

2. What is the optimal distance of the septic tank from the house?
It is often recommended to be between 5 to 8 meters, but specific regulations may vary depending on the region and project documentation. The main thing is to adhere to minimum sanitary standards to avoid the risk of undermining the foundation or wastewater entering the basement.

3. How to determine the volume of the septic tank?
The calculation is based on the daily water consumption per resident (approximately 150–200 liters). Multiply this figure by the number of people and by three days. For a house with 4 residents, the optimal minimum volume of the septic tank will be about 2–2.5 m³.

4. What to do if the groundwater level is high?
Use sealed septic tank designs, additional waterproofing, and secure the septic tank to avoid “floating.” It may be necessary to have an elevated filtration field or special pumping solutions.

5. How to properly make a septic tank at a summer cottage (in a suburban or rural house)?
The principle is the same, but it is worth focusing on seasonal use. If the house is not heated in winter, the system may need to be winterized or a less temperature-sensitive option chosen.

9. Useful tips for long-term operation

• Regularly check ventilation: an unpleasant smell may indicate poor air circulation.
• Choose bacteria that match your type of septic tank: they accelerate the decomposition of organic waste and reduce sludge formation.
• Avoid overloading the system: distribute water usage evenly throughout the day so that sharp peak loads do not exceed the septic tank’s capacity.

Conclusion

Creating a reliable autonomous sewage system is one of the key issues in the construction or reconstruction of a private house. Now you know how to make a septic tank in a private house: from choosing a location and optimal type to step-by-step installation and further operation. Follow the recommendations regarding the distance from the house, well, and other important objects, and pay attention to the quality of materials and tightness.

If you doubt your skills or encounter complications (for example, high groundwater level or complex terrain), it is better to consult a specialist. A properly arranged septic tank will ensure comfort, cleanliness, and health for all residents of your house for many years.